Day 89 Saturday 1/10/2016

Rest day

A very nice sunny day so went for a walk to the local supermarket and did a big shop, food for a week and also decided to treat myself and get a couple of medallion steaks and a small 25cl bottle of red wine. I gave Pippa a haircut with scissors as I do not have any hair flippers, plus over the past week or so I have been a bit neglectful of giving her a proper grooming, plus with all the road dust she had quite a few tangles, so the haircut was a bit on the heavy side, I left her head and tail and did about 90% of her body, I’ll still have to do some more but trying to get her to sit still while I cut is not easy.

Haircut – work in progress

A nice Danish man who always had time for Pippa whenever he passed told me he was leaving the site in the morning to go home and gave me some tins of food, plus a cooking set, similar to the trangia set I have but with bigger pans, I’ve been looking for a bigger pan as my Trangia 27 set of pans is not quite big enough to cook a meal for Pippa and me now I have a touring cyclists appetite, this set has 3 ltr, 2 ltr, 1.6 ltr pans, a frying pan that is bigger then my 2 frying pans/plates, and a 1.5 ltr kettle, I did not need the kettle but I might find another traveller down the road who would need it, it was all brand new and in its box, and he had had it a few years but never used it.

Presents

I took Pippa to the dog playground again but she just wanted to run and sniff for other dog scents.

Doggie playground

That night I had 2 thick steaks, fryed in garlic and onions, with some tomato olive oil I had left over from some Sun dried tomatoes with some thyme I found growing in the campsite, with new potatoes and sweetcorn, accompanied by a breaker of red wine. The wine went to my head as I drink so little these days.

Day 90

I struggled to get everything packed this morning with my presents and 2 weeks of food now but managed it, I had no room for any apples as I’d planed on taking a few, but I pass enough Apple trees along the road so I can always scrump a few. At 11 o’clock I was on the road again for a day of island hopping, over a bridge to the island of Falster, over another old long bridge to the island of Masendo and a shorter bridge to the island of Sjaelland and into Vordingborg, I was planning on camping in Tappernoje but when I pulled over at a carpark by a restaurant to have lunch the lady who owned the place came over, we chatted and she said I could camp there, as she was showing me where I could go it started to rain and she offered me a room in a guest house behind the restaurant, and a meal later in the evening. I was offered 2 rooms, a double or a twin room, I took the twin room as it ment I had a bed to sort things out on.
Pippa would have nothing to do with the agility course yesterday but enjoyed jumping from one bed to the other. I had a shower and put on clean clothes for the meal later, but the smelly ones will be going back on tomorrow for the ride.
The meal was a schnitzel type steak with potatoes, green beans and carrots, with a glass of red wine, and after the meal I was given a doggie bag with some nice pieces of steak to take back to Pippa in the room, I was hard cutting up her steak, only because it looked so nice but I let her have it all.
I was also told I could pick as many apples or pears I wanted but as I still had no room to carry them I found a walnut tree and took a dozen walnuts instead.
A lovely nights sleep on a real bed and not my little air bed, plus I would not have to get dressed if I needed to go to the toilet in the night, luxury.
Today 34km

Guest house and resturant

Day 91

Up at 7 with the best nights sleep in ages. I packed up and the rain came along, so made use of the coffee machine and had 4 large mugs of real coffee until the rain stopped at 11 when I headed off. I think i drank too much coffee as I had to stop 5 times to pee in the first hour. The wind was very strong and when I made Tappernoje I stopped at the campsite, I had not travelled far today but the weather was not nice. Had the first free tin of food for lunch, a Thai red curry, and an afternoon nap. That evening I had a tin of spaghetti napoli, 2 tins used up and a little more space in my bags.

Today only 11km.

Day 92

Left site at 1030 and it was less then 1km when I came to another campsite, a man pulled over in his car and we chatted, then as he left another guy I met at a campsite a few days ago pulled over and we talked about what I had been doing since I last saw him.
I set off again, lovely blue skies and Sun but a strong cross wind so I had to push for 5km. Clicked through Ronnede and stopped at a petrol station for milk, sugar and a hotdog, so I could share it with pippa. I made it to Koge campsite that the info sign said was open but found in closed in September, the manager told me of another site down the road 7 km away, and in the wrong direction I was heading but the light was fading so I headed there. It was 11km away. The site was very expensive and I was told they had no WiFi which they did as I found the signal later, I tried to guess the password but no luck. It was 100kr for the night, I gave the lady a 500 note, she went to the till looked in it and came back, I thought she did not have change, she did my paperwork and told me where I could camp, and I had to ask for my change, she went to the till again and removed 400kr for me.
Today 55km.

Day 93

Left campsite at 1030 to get my camping card back and she tried to charge me again, now I do think she was trying to rip me off, and feel better about taking the 3 way extension lead I found near the bin store.
Cycled back the way I came and into Koge, at the tourist office ask for a vet, I think it’s the first time a cycle tourist has asked for a vet there but I got directions.
At the vet I got Pippa her 1 year booster injection and a check up, the same Nobivac L4 and DHP as before, I still have 3 more months of her Milbemax worm tablets but as I’m out of flea gel asked her and she advised Bayvantic for the next leg of my journey which i could get at an chemist.
As I was leaving the vet’s in the old part of town I think i upset a tour guide who was telling his party about the history, when they started to ignore him and point at the cute dog in the trailer behind me.
I stopped in a go As sided bus shelter to have lunch, get out of the wind and soak up the Sun when a lady pulled over to see if I was alright and had a problem, I told her I’d only stopped for lunch and we talked a little. At an out 5pm I left the road for a cycle track by the sea, let Pippa have a run and stopped by some toilets, cooked dinner, a tin of chicken curru and waited for dusk to pitch my tent as I was not sure if I should be camping there.
Today 36 km.

Day 94

At 8 I was moving again but walked for the first km so Pippa could have a run, at the road it was back in the trailer for her, and I found a campsite 2km up the road, why do the Danish not put up signs for campsites?
I cycled into Copenhagen and found a chemist for Pippas flea gel then out of town, north of Copenhagen I found a campsite but it was very expensive so I carried on stopping for a brew a couple of km along, checked Google maps and saw a forest 3km further on but ended up cycling about another 10 km to a bigger wood and leaving only 25km to the ferry port, ( 15 miles ).
Today 41km.

Day 95

On the move again by 8 following cycle route 9 through the forest, returned to the road and found a campsite 4km up the road, need I have to say anything about signs for campsites, anyway I had a free night camping. About 10 km into the day I had to stop to replace another broken spoke, I’m going to have to find a bike shop to true my back wheel as I can only do so much with my make shift wheel spinner. I made it to Helsinger port and had a funny look at to car payment arch as she saw the bike trailer and Pippa, but only charged me 30kr. On the ferry I had 41kr left in coins so went to see what I could get, 1 large coffee, a chocolate cake with cream and a Danish pastry, I can change the notes I have at a bank.
The first few people I met in Sweden were very friendly as I checked my map, then I made my way to Raa campsite. That was expensive as I had to also buy a Swedish camping card valid till the end of the year and no discount for buying it in October, I booked for 2 nights as i need to wash my clothes and 24 hours internet.
Had a long 20 minute shower as there was no time limit with the last 15 minutes having the water temp at max soaking into my saw shoulders, washed my clothes and hung them up on my washing line/spare guy lines with slip knots as the weather forecast said there might be rain, cooked up my last free tin of food in a new larger saucepan, a chilli con carnie.
When I arrived at the site mid afternoon it was almost empty, but during the day over 100 caravans and campervans arrived, I was the only one in a tent, the Swedish campers must be taking advantage of the wild camping laws which I intend to do.
Watched episode 3 of the new big bang theory and the new Star Trek film as I had good inter-web, light rain at 11pm so bought my washing in.
Today 34km.

Denmark

Day 79, 21/9/2016

Left my free wild campsite and continued along the coastal path for 1/2 km, it was a gravel path and had lots of ups and downs, but it was too steep for me to push up, I could have done it on tarmac but even with my Shimano MT 71 cycle shoes with Vibram soles I could not get any traction and my feet kept slipping on the loose stones, so I had to turn around, I found another path that followed the border and made it to the hard surface again and a big Viking bike

land of the giants

Today 33 km

Day 80

Early start and on the road by 7am, following the 170, the cycle path/hard shoulder was very narrow and if I had stuck in the middle of it my handlebars would have overhung the road and grass verge, but the Danish drivers always gave me lots of room when overtaking. Stopped at Haderselv to get some more money out, this time a decent amount. On the way out of town a car was waiting on the grass verge for me, and the driver offered me some local beers, we had a chat and he took some pictures and gave me 100 Kroner for my journey. Very nice people these Danish. I carried on and at Christianfeld I bought some nice bread, then stopped at Kolding campsite for the night.
Today 51km

I liked this cyclists sign

Day 81
Rest day

I made use of the free showers at the campsite, and I think I needed to, the site also had a dog shower room and as she stank worse then I did, she had a shower as well. I used the day to have a good clean up, even the green algee forming on the insides of my waterbottles, after all my chores were done I drank my free beer from yesterday, Black Bird from the Fuglsung brewery, a brown beer and very nice.

A very nice Danish beer

Day 82

Still heading north and at Snoghoj I crossed a bridge to the island of Fyn and stopped at the campsite, the owner insisted I must have a camping card to stay so that set me back 100 kr ( I’ve since found out that I could have got away with buying a transit card at a lot cheaper price ), I had to give an a address and could not explain to him my address was his campsite or where ever I pitched my tent, so I gave him an old address.
Today 28 km.

Day 83

I left the campsite at Middelfart and carried on along the 161. I did look on the map further south and could not find a bottom fart. I carried on past Indslev and at about Gremmelokke stopped at a lay by for lunch, I was going to make a brew but a nice Danish couple from Copenhagen offered me a coffee and gave me a bag of homemade Danish meatballs, the tastiest meatballs I’ve ever had, 100 times better then the Swedish meatballs you get at Ikea, it was hard not to eat them all to myself but I did share bits with Pippa, they also gave me some chocolate biscuits that gave me an energy boost. It was mainly up hill with a strong headwind until I reached Vissonberg, occasionally I had to push on the flat sections as the wind was so strong. At Tommerup I found a sign that said there was a primitive camping platform in Narup, just reaching it by dusk. I went past it first time and stopped to ask directions, I’d only gone less then 1km so not that bad. I stopped where I thought it was and a man came out of the house next to the community centre and asked if I was looking for somewhere to sleep, he told me he had seen me cycle past 5 minutes earlier, he walked me around the back of the hall, pointed out the toilets and showed me the sleeping platforms. He also told me he had been to London and showed me his Chelsea FC tattoo on his arm, I told him I supported Crystal Palace FC as I had been banned from Milwall in the 1970’s, he gave me a very scared look until I told him my bitch mother had banned me, so I went to Crystal Palace instead.
A very clear night, I saw Jupiter and another planet, and also the great bear and the north star, slept under the shelter star gazing.
Today 54 km.

Sleeping platforms

Day 84

Awake at half past 6 and it started raining at 7 until 9, so I stayed in the shelter and did not leave site until half past 10, then onto Vernige, Brobyvoerk and Stenstrup, but did not find another info sign with primitive camping shelters. Just past Kirkeby I found a sign that said there was a campsite just west of Svendborg so carried on chasing the light. Just outside of Svendborg i saw another cyclist with a 2 wheeled trailer half a km behind me, he was peddling like a hellhound was after him, he caught me up, dinged his bell, and I moved over, he had a border collie cross in his trailer, and as soon as he overtook me, he slowed down and I had to start applying the brakes, I would have blasted my air horn to get him to move over, but the cycle path was on a raised pavement and I was worried that if he moved over and a trailer wheel came off the dog might get hurt, so I followed him a couple of hundred of metres where the cycle path joined the road again and overtook him, on the down hill section and with all the weight I was carrying left him for dust. When I reached Svendborg on the coast I turned west and made for Rantzausminde campsite arriving at dusk. The lady at the site told me it was 60 kr, we talked and she said 50 kr, when I got my wallet out she said I could camp for free, I like to think it was my beautiful blue eyes but it was probably my cute little dog, or just she wanted me to shut up and go away, but a free night camping on a campsite. Very cloudy night and no stars, but at least that means it will be a warm night.
Today 59 km.

View from my free campsite

Day 85

I had a good 12 hours sleep last night and did not wake up until 9 in the morning, I must have been tired as I did not leave the campsite until noon. Backtracked to town, about 5 km and went over the bridge to the island of Tasiage, decided it was a nice day and I needed to wash my clothes as well as myself so stopped at the first campsite.

If only Carlsberg did campsites

The site office was closed when I arrived at 1 pm but a workman told me to put my tent up and come back to the office later. I found a nice spot to pitch my tent, and down to business, changed my clothes and washed the dirty ones, and hanging them to dry. All the showers were card operated, so found a sink with hot water and have a flannel wash, had to change the water a lot as it was going black fast, popped back to town 1 km and did some shopping, then took it easy till the evening. When the manager arrived back he gave me a shower card and told me to pay in the morning as he would have to add the hot water for the shower card.
Today only 13 km.

Day 86

Just the standard camping fee as I had no need of the shower by the time the manager arrived yesterday. I was up at 8 and it was very cloudy, so I struck camp as fast as possible and moved over to a bench under a shelter to have breakfast. I followed route 9 through Vindeby and Bregnige to the island of Sio, a very small island and soon to the bridge to the island of Langeland, it was a very high bridge so sailing vessels could pass under, that ment it was very steep pushing over it, at the top the crosswinds were very strong and I had to walk the bike down the other side. I went past Rudkobing the emergency escape plan campsite if the weather turned too bad, the Sun was hot, blue skies, but winds of upto 18m per second. I carried on cycling and 5km from Spodsberg I had to take back roads as the nice new road had no cycle path, 9 km later when I reached Spodsberg I found the ferry port and bought my ticket, 90 kr, on the 45 minute crossing I went to the canteen and bought a small white coffee for 28 Kroner, just under £3, I think I’ll stick to water or take my stove on deck of the next long ferry. Arrived at Tars, ( 8th ferry since leaving London ), on the island of Lolland. Made my way to Onsevig campsite passing a Viking along the way.
Today 43 km.

first real Viking 

Day 87

Struck camp and made my way to Utterslev where I found the 289 again and onto Horslunde and Birket, about 20 km with the wind in my rear quarter, from Birket to Maribo the wind was stronger then yesterday it was a south westerly wind and I was going north east so it should not have been a problem, but the road never went in a NE direction so I always had crosswinds and had to walk the bike most of the next 20 km, the only good thing was the island of Lolland is very flat, but most of it fields with hardly any trees to block the wind. I only saw one mere mortal on a bike this afternoon, and he had no panniers on his bike. 3 km outside of Maribo it started to rain and we were soaked by the time we reached the campsite. At the campsite they wanted 135 kr, I said this was expensive for Denmark and was told all the facilities they had, I did not want them, only a place to put up my tent. It was a bit chaotic in the tent as I had to dry the bags so I could store them before I could let Pippa out of her travel box and dry her, even then we both had to sit in the awning for a couple of hours until she was dry enough to go in the inner tent. Watched the new big bang theory, and Jason Bourne.
Today 40km

Day 88 30/9/2016

Up early and packed up everything away apart from the tent as I was leaving that to dry in the morning Sun. I moved my bike to the cooking hut and made breakfast while my damp clothes dried on the backs of chairs, charged up my computer and storage battery while making use of the hand dryer in the toilets to dry my damp waterproofs. At 11 I left site and made my way to the bank as I was down to coppers, then cycled to Guldberg campsite, I was planning to go a lot further but decided I needed an easy day. I was told I could have as many apples as I wanted as the were falling off the trees. The campsite also had a dog exercise area, but Pippa did not want to do any of the agility tests just run around, even when I tried to coax her with doggie treats she just ran around the object to get her treat.
Today only 22 km

Dog playground

Day 65 – 7/9/2016
Made the 1000 mile mark today, total distance 1641km, 4 ferries, 2 punctures and 1 broken spoke.
Not sure when I made it into Germany but when I saw a street sign with an umlaut and beta S, I knew I was there. In Bunde I bought a map and headed onto Leer where I picked up some free maps at the tourist office. I’m not sure about the German cycle routes, there seems to be lots of them, and at least 4 different types but the signage is terrible as they disappear at junctions so using traffic signs. My map showed a campsite at Detern but when I arrived at about 5 pm the site did not allow dogs, so I filled up with water and wild camped in my tent a couple of hundred metres down the road in the woods.
Today 51km.

Day 66
Just packed all my panniers and about to walk off into the woods with my trowel, when 2 people appeared coming up to me, apparently I had pitched my tent by a geo cache, only 3 metres from my tent in a bird box. I am now cutting the corner and left the coast so heading in a NE direction towards Westerstede, Bockhorn and onto Varel on the coast again and found a campsite near Diekmannshausen, it has been very hot and humid the last couple of days so it was nice to get a sea breeze again. Today thanks to the German efficiency I now know what height Santa flys at.

Santa’s flying height

The best thing about today was a vending machine, I’ve seen cigarette machines and condom machines, but this afternoon when I was down to half a litre of water I came across a dairy products machine and bought myself a litre of ice cold Chocolate milk.

Dairy products vending machine

Today 64 km

Day 67

Rest day
After the last 2 days cycling I thought I needed A rest day.
A good shower and washed my clothes, then went for a walk with Pippa that tired her out, but I should have trimmed her claws first as the walk would have taken the Sharp edges off as I do not want her putting holes in my groundsheet or air bed.

Day 68

Pippa must have ate something on the walk yesterday that she should not have, at 2am she started acting funny, I let her out to go to the toilet, but she was still restless and at 4am she wanted to go out again, this time she was sick, when she came back in the tent she was shivering and cold, not her normal hot water bottle, I did not get much sleep and did not leave the campsite until after 12 noon. I carried on along the coast and at the campsite at Tossen they wanted 22 Euro, he added up 7 different items to get the price, not sure what they were but can only guess at 1 person, 1 night, 1 tent, 1 bike, 1 pitch, electricity and tax. Told him too expensive and carried on along the coast. Next campsite had no office, the sign said go to the bar when office was closed and the barmaid sent me back to the closed office. The next campsite had a sign pointing in the wrong direction, I saw the site about a km behind me when I went to the top of the dyke so I went to camp on the beach and sleep under the stars. While I was cooking dinner I started talking to a couple of women walking their dogs and they told me that the ferry I was heading for was out of service due to colliding with a container ship, but did show me on the map where another ferry was. Not sure what happened with the ferry but the container ship should have had a pilot and the ferry captain should have known the Collision regulations, I know them and its not my job.
Today 47km.

Day 69

Up at 7 and on the road by 7.30, at 9am I passed the ferry port that was out of service and carried on south, it was an overcast day so not that hot, cycled past Nordenham and took the Brake – Sandstedt ferry and camped in the campsite on the east bank. I’ve seen lots of cigarette vending machines in Germany but the campsite had one and I had a closer look, you have to swipe your driving licence as well as pay to get anything out.
Today 42 km.

Brake – Sandstedt ferry

Day 70

Left campsite heading north at 11am and at 1120am found cycle path was padlocked shut so had to backtrack to where I could get over the dyke to find another cycle path, 1 hour later the path was practicable impassable due to construction work, I had to push my bike over bulldozed earth for about 100 metres that was very hard and discovered I knew lots of German swear words, Well most were English but with a German accent that I learned from watching war films.
I met a German cyclist that told me the east coast of Germany was better to cycle up to Denmark then the west as the west had a headwind.
At 3pm I was in Bremerhaven, 30 hours earlier I was only 500 metres away where the ferry route was out of service. I stopped at an Aldi to restock on food and at 530 pm stopped on a bench on the dyke to spend the night.
Today 41km.
Day 71
Today I had to revoke Pippas link privilege, e.g. remove one of the caribeeners that harness her into the trailer, due to her jumping from one side of the trailer to the other and hanging out, I don’t mind her hanging out but when she jumps from side to side I loose momentum by trying to keep the bike upright and it can be dangerous if the road is busy as I might go under a car. I do not like doing it as I want her to have as much freedom as possible plus she whines to much. Carried on to Cuxhaven where I bought some Velcro and bread, then along the coast into a strong headwind and stopped on a bench on the dyke at 4pm. At dusk I moved down to the seafront and put up my tent.
Today 49 km.

Day 72

Met my first angry farmer today, he came driving past me, screeched to a halt blocking my way and ordered me to go back, saying no dogs. I was on the north sea cycle route track and I had seen other people with bikes and dogs on this stretch of path, there was no livestock about for at least 2 miles either side of me and no crops, just the dyke, and the grass was cut in such a way that it was being left to mulch and not going to be used for silage etc. I showed him that Pippa was tied in and could not get out but he was having none of it. Maybe it was the Union Jack that I was flying from the back of the trailer that put him off me. In the Nederlands I was cycling along with Pippa by the dyke with sheep crossing the path and just smiles and waves from the farmers. I took another path back to the road and at Ottendorf rejoined the path again. At 10am I stopped to have breakfast and listen to David Attenborough on radio 4 talk about the sub aquatic ape theory, something I have heard a little about but it’s nice to hear it from Sir David.
In the afternoon just past Belum I was pushing the bike due to strong headwinds when I heard a metallic twang, I checked my back wheel and saw another broken spoke, I pushed for a couple more km until I found a safe place with shade to pull over and replaced the spoke and had a cuppa. A couple of hours later I was riding again and came across a cyclist/walkers rest hut and as it was 6pm stopped for the night. The farmer in the field next to me was plowing into the night and did not finish until half nine and set Pippa off every time he reached my end of the field.
Today 39km.

Not sure it was ment to sleep in, but did

Day 73

Another early start and carried on to Freiburg where I stopped for breakfast and to listen to part 2 of Attenborough on the waterside ape. Went past the turning for the Wischafen ferry to visit the supermarket, then onto the ferry overtaking lots of parked cars waiting for the ferry. From the east side of the river I cycled north to Brunsbuttel where I caught another ferry over the shipping canal and followed the canal to Hochdonn where I booked into the campsite for 2 nights, at the office I also bought a beer as I felt I deserved it. It felt strange cycling along a canal with container ships passing yards from me.
Today 73km.
Day 74, Friday 16 th September
Rest day.
If I was not keeping a diary I would have no idea it was my birthday. I had a lie in until 9 in the morning, then the birthday shower, washed my clothes and cut Pippas front claws as they were getting very long then went for an hour walk along the canal, one reason was it was a nice morning but the main reason was I wanted Pippa to wear down the sharp edges so she would not put a hole in the ground sheet or my air bed.
Treated myself to a real coffee for my birthday with a home made coffee filter machine made from an old plastic milk bottle and filter from a paper hand towel

home made coffee filter machine

Then did some sewing, the little bag I keep on the crossbar to keep my E-Werk and storage battery, it has been annoying me for over a month now as it is very cheep quality Velcro and keeps sliding round and falling off, so I replaced the Velcro.

More sewing but at least I will not lose my electrics 

It rained in the afternoon so had to get my washing undercover. I also worked out that 9 degrees east is as far east that I can pick up radio 4 on long wave.

Day 75

I had to use the campsites tumble dryer this morning to finish drying clothes. Made the 2000 km mark today, continued up the canal towards the Baltic sea, strong headwinds all Day.

Shipping canal

Stopped on the canal just south of Rendsburg and put up tent in a fishing spot and spent the night with the odd ship passing yards from me.
Today 41km

Day 76

Made it into Rendsburg then left the canal to follow route 77 north. In town I managed to find free inter-web outside a bank and downladed more Google maps.
Just past Jagel I broke another back spoke, this time it only took an hour to replace, hope I do not get to much practice doing this and if I’ve broken 3 rear spokes in northern Europe it does not bare well for the rest of the world, plus I only brought 10 for the rear wheel with me.
Camped in a field near Busdorf 1km from the Baltic sea.
Today 37km

Day 77

Made it into Schleswig and the cycle signs disappeared again. Found way out and heading for Flensburg, stopped at supermarket and managed to find BrennSpiritus, methylated spirits in German. Planned on making the border today but had to keep stopping to check Google maps as signs in Germany are very bad, then Found a campsite and had an early finish for the Day stopping just north of Sieverstedt. I was the only person at the campsite and the owner told me I did not have to keep Pippa on a leash so she had good fun exploring.

Today only 25 km.

Day 78 Tuesday 20/9/2016

Late start this morning, left campsite at 1030 and found a bakers 1km up the road so stopped and bought bread and a couple of nice pastries. I made it to Flensburg and tried to find free wifi but could not, even standing outside McDonald’s so gave up in town after an hour, no detailed maps of Denmark on Google maps for me.

German-Danish border

I made Denmark in the afternoon over a wooden bridge and walked through the forest, seeing signs saying dogs must be on leads, no motor vehicles, no horses, no camping and no fires, then to my surprise I saw a sign for wild camping.

Free wild campsite sign

the sign at the bottom of the track said max of 2 nights if my Danish is right. So I pitched my tent yards from the Baltic and 1km into Denmark in a nice tranquil spot, until 2 Germans turned up on motorbikes with a trailer and set up 6 fishing rods.

Today only 23 km

Day 51
Wednesday 24/8/16
Early start and cycled through Noordwijk and along the dunes to Zandvoort and inland towards IJmuiden where I found a campsite in the woods, showered and felt great, so I went on a 22 km ride without panniers and any weight. It felt good to be able to cycle at speed, but I was a bit wobbly at first having no weight on the front, the handlebars felt really light.
Total days mileage 63 km.

Day 52
Rest day
I washed my clothes this morning as it was going to be a really hot day, then took a walk to Driehus station and caught the train to Amsterdam as it was only about 15 miles to the city centre. I tried to walk around town but as it was at least 33 degrees with no wind I found a bar with chairs outside by a canal, tied Pippa up under a Sun umbrella and went in to get a drink, when all of a sudden while I was standing at the counter a little white thing came sprinting through the doors and bounding up to me with a big smile on her face, Pippa had slipped her harness, proberly due to me trying to make Pippa more comfortable by making her harness looser for trailer travel. I had a coke, then a beer while watching boats going along the canal, it was too hot to do anything so went back to the campsite.

Day 53
Left campsite and had a lot of wobble at first until I was used to cycling with all that weight on the bike again. 2 km along I caught another ferry, this one was free, then on the other side back to the coast. I felt like an easy day today but first campsite, no dogs, the same with second and third sites, the fourth and fifth campsites only let in campervans and caravans, no tents and the sixth site was full. So I carried on past Bergen aan zee where I found a bench, made a tea and started cooking dinner, I was half way through cooking when a bull came over to see what Pippa was. Ate dinner and carried on to the next cattle grid where I was safe from beasties, found another bench and set up camp for the night.
Today 48 km.

Day 54

Early start and carried along the dune path but the headwinds were to strong so I moved to the cycle path 500 metres inland, there was still the same headwind but at least it was flat. It was a very hot day so found a campsite put up tent and also put up tarp as a Sun shade.

I have to get my timings right as in a day or so I have a 30 km dam to cross.
Today only 26 km

Day 55
The rain I had been expecting over the last few days came this morning from 8am to 10am, left the campsite at 11 on a very overcast and humid day heading forvthe big dam. I had a tailwind today for the first time in days and after 31 km I made it to the start of the dam at Den Oever. I decided to make use of the tailwind an crossed the 30 km dam in 2 hours. Found a campsite and took a well deserved rest after cycling 67 km today.

Day 56
Rest day
I managed to get Pippa into a sink and gave her a good bath, so I could give her her monthly worming pills and flea gel. Then I charged up all my electrical things.

Day 57
Left campsite at 11 and stopped at Harlingen Aldi to do a big shop, I must have added another 8kg to my load. Stopped a 2pm for a brew and lunch then carried onto campsite just past Oudebildtdijk. Today 42 km.

Day 58
An easy ride today camping at Holwerd campsite after 32 km cycling.

Day 59
Thursday 1/9/2016
Rest day
There was a church next to the campsite that rang the hour on the hour and 1 ring on the half hour, this came in handy as when the bell rang say 3 times in the night I knew what time it was and did not have to look at my watch to see what time it was that I had woken. I walked into town to do some shopping and also bought some fire gel as I could not find meths, as I did not want my trangia burner to get blocked up with gunk I invented a new burner, I say I invented, I just used a tomato puree tin.

Tomato puree tin stove

The site was a slug haven, snails without homes, and I think they all wanted to move in with me, I spent a lot of time throwing them out.

Day 60

Carried along the dyke until I came to what I think is my last dam, I checked out the campsite at Lauuersoog but it was too expensive so carried on and wild camped in tent about 5 km further up the road. Total distance for today 40 km.

Day 61
I’m out of map now so I have to follow the coast from cycle point to cycle point. Early start at 7.30 and stopped at 9am for breakfast, and then at 12 noon under a wind turbine for lunch. A very boring day of cycling with a big dyke to my left, sharing the path with sheep, and a drainage ditch/canal to my right with fields of crops beyond, same scenery for over 35 km. I did see hares and birds of prey hunting. Camped at campsite in Bierum after 51 km

Day 62

Rest day
The weather forecast has been threatening it would rain today, but the last time I had internet access was a few days ago and I have travelled a distance since then. About 9 in the morning there was a heavy summer thunder storm then the Sun came out again, so we went for a walk around town and just made it back before the heavens opened up again, Pippa still has problems understanding that she has to stay in the outer tent and not allowed in the inner tent when wet.

Day 63

2 months on the road and going good, cycle route signs disappeared at Delfzijl but I found them again on the other side. Carried on towards Germany but ended up wild camping on the beach just over the dyke so I was out of view from anyone. Today 33 km.

Day 64 6/9/2016

Broke a spoke this morning, it must have been the cattle grids that I have been going over every 5 minutes for the last few days. It took about 2 hours to replace but at least I put the kettle on so I could have a cuppa. I had to remove my seat post to get to my spare spokes, all my panniers, the trailer, disconnect the gearbox, remove the tyre and tube and then the brake disc to get to it, lucky it was a nice day as I do not think I could have done it as calmly in the rain. Made it to the border but could not find a way across the canal so headed south and camped up in a campsite. Today only 24 km.

The first of many, I expect

First 50 days

1164 km
16 Rest days
2 punctures
4 ferries

I have survived the first 50 days, and my legs are not aching as much as I expected, it’s my wrists and shoulders that are taking a beating. I am cycling up hills that 50 days ago I would not even try, I’d just get off and start pushing, still not ready for the alps yet. My Brookes leather saddle has finally broken into my bum shape, that makes cycling longer days possible.
Some things I might change are I would have a bigger saucepan, the 2 that I have from the Trangia 27 are not big enough on there own, if I want to cook an evening meal for Pippa and me now I have a cyclists appetite she would not get much, so I have been also giving her dog biscuits. I would have my new bike stand from the start. I’ve noticed in the Nederlands that a lot of people are using e-bikes, if I had a motor on the front wheel, the hub dynamo could move from the 26 inch front to the 16 inch trailer wheel, and generate almost double the power. If I put a solar panel above the trailer, it would act as a rain/sun shade. And if I could get an upside down front fork and fit blades in between the spokes I could turn the hub dynano into a wind turbine by night, if the same thing could be done with the front wheel motor to spin the other way you would have a generator, with 2 batteries to power the bike up hills and into headwinds it would not be cheating as the electricity is free.
I would keep the Rolhoff gear hub and recommend everyone gets one, they make cycling so much easier.
I would not have left my small, low chair with a back behind. It was bulky but light.
I would consider front suspension as I think my wrists and shoulders would agree.
I have worked out what the whinning noise coming from the trailer at slow speeds is, it’s Pippa I think she is a speed freak, and I also now know what keeps causing trailer wobble, it’s Pippa again, leaning out at full length for a better view.
I’m still taking it easy by not cycling in the rain if possible, it’s not that nice so why do it if I get no enjoyment from it, I prefer not to cycle to far each day, I’d rather see what is around rather then how many miles I can clock up on the cycle computer. I’m still taking lots of stops so Pippa can stretch her legs, and I’m sticking to that excuse.
It has been so good to be free with no time limit and the only worries I have are where am I going to put my tent up tonight and have I got enough water.

Day 47 Sunday 20/8/16
Rest day
Lovely clear skies, so I washed my clothes and set up a washing line with walking poles and tarp lines.
I went for a cycle ride to town, taking a nice long ride on a lovely sunny day. I did some food shopping then I bought a new stand for the bike, a Cordo Ursus Jumbo 26, this is an extra wide double stand, with larger feet, and rated to 60 kg. The Pletscher stand that I got with the bike was good, but broke, and was only rated to 20 kg, and the cheep halfords one I bought near Folkstone, was practically useless. I also bought some more handle bar tape, and looked into trailer tyres, yes you can get schweebie marathon tyres in 16 inch. In the afternoon I fitted the stand and put another layer of handle bar tape on top of the old tape that was on top of some silicon pads. The handle bars look thicker now, and hopefully l will get less vibrations in my wrists. Today only 15 km and with an unloaded bike.

washing line and bike stand in background

Day 48
Another rest day.
Heavy rain all day so I stayed in the tent, relaxed.
Day 49
Another rest day.
It rained till mid-day, and in the afternoon I went for a ride to town, I needed a cash machine and some meths, according to Google translate methylated spirts is SPIRITUS in Dutch, but I could not find any, but I did find one thing called bio ethanol, that contained 95% ethanol, and one of the things I remember from chemistry lessons over 30 years ago is hydro carbons and alcohol. I know this will burn, but not how fierce. ( burns very fast with a vigorous flame, and hot, evaporates fast ).
Today only 12 km
Day 50

A bright sunny day again, with hardly any wind, but lots of hills, well hills for Holland any well, the North Sea Cycle Route along the dunes goes up and down all the time. I followed the coast up to Scheveningen, where I lost the cycle route around the port due to roadworks, but sticking to the plan when I left home of keeping the sea on the left has worked so far and I found the route again. The campsite at Katwijk allowed no dogs so I carried on and slept under the star’s on a bench, wild camping. Today 43 km.

Nederland

Days 42 – 46  15/8/16 – 20/8/16

Day 42, Monday 15/8/16
Left campsite and had a funny feel to the back wheel, stopped to check and found the quick release skewer was loose, I must have caught it while I was loading the panniers I crossed the border after about 10 km but not sure where as I was on the coast cycle path and no signs. I bought a map and found a campsite to plan my route for the next day or so. Total distance today 36 km.

Checking out the doggy shower

The campsite even had a dog bath.

But she did not like it

I went for a 5 mile walk in the afternoon to give Pippa some exercise

Day 43
10 km ride to Bresten where I had 1 ½ hour wait for the ferry. Approaching the ferry terminal I received a flat tyre on the trailer, I replaced the innertube on the ferry but felt uneasy as I was in the Netherlands and every Dutch person watching me must have changed hundreds of tyres, I hope I did it right. I checked the tube but could not find a puncture, I checked the tyre, inside and out, but could not find anything so I just replaced the tube and decided to check it properly this evening. In town I found a tourist office to buy more maps, and an Aldi for food. 2 km up the road I had another puncture in the trailer wheel, but I had no more tubes, so time to fix two punctures. This time I found the hole, so I narrowed the search for the hole in the other tube to 2 places. With a guide from the puncture I also removed a sharp stone resembling a fossilized shark tooth from the tyre. At the campsite near westkapelle haveing cycled 36 km. Pippa had a fan club of over 10 children, I was given a beer later, from the dad of one of the group’s of children, proberly for giving him some peace for a bit.

Day 44
A nice ride along the coast, but with a headwind all day, over a 2 km bridge with sea either side then onto an 8 km dam, I stopped by a little cafe half way across for a cold coke, then 6 km later I made the 1000 km mark.

1000 km 

I stopped in the woods at Boswachteris Westenschouwen to have a brew up by a bench, then decided from the map that there would not be a campsite for at least 7 km, so wild camped and slept on the bench. 37 km today and a total of 1004 km.

My bench for the night

Day 45

Up at 6 in the morning and backtracked to a car park that had a toilet. I made it to the car park at half past 6, but the sign on the toilet block sign said open at 8, I tried all the doors and the disabled door was unlocked. I saw a small herd of deer then cycled up the coast a little and stopped for a tea and my morning porrage. Stopped for an second breakfast at 11. Another long dyke with a headwind. At Ouddrop tourist office I bought a map book with maps around the whole country and camped at Stellendam. Today 49 km.

Day 46
Another dam to cross with more headwinds a looking for a campsite for an easy day, but no dogs so I carried on to the port at Maasvlakte, where I got another ferry to the Hoek van Holland where I checked into the campsite for 2 days as I needed a rest. It rained very heavily during the night and I thought the site might flood. Today 41 km, total 1094 km, 3 ferries and 2 punctures.

Careful position of bike to get the flag flying on the ferry

Belgium

The boarder post

Days 39-41
Day 39 12/8/2016
I made Belgium at about 1130 hrs after 14 km riding and saw no border checks on either side, the French side had 4 police officers 1km into France, standing around smoking and talking, not paying attention to the cars passing them in France. It made me wonder why I had heard on the radio that armed French police were being lifted by helicopters onto cross channel ferries in case of terrorists from England but anyone could drive into France from Belgium.I stopped in De Panne to buy a map then found a campsite and washed my clothes again as it was a scorching hot day and they would dry by dark.Cycled 28 km today. Now I’m out of France I should be able to get that French song out of my head, the one that goes “ matches, box of matches, matches, box of matches, “, I have been known to get lyrics wrong before.
Day 40
I cycled further then I expected today as I had a problem finding a campsite, sites 1, 2, and 3, no dogs, site 4 no tents, sites 5, 6, and 7, full, site 8 expensive, but I was tired so I stopped, as it was a built up area near De Haan. I am going to have to slow down as I’ve covered half of Belgium’s coastline in 1 day having cycled 54 km today.
Day 41
I planned a short day today or I would pass through Belgium to fast, but the 1st 3 campsites were full and ended up near Knokke near the Dutch border after 36 km.

Day 28 – 1/8/2016

Left campsite at 9am and paid for last night, then cycled through the marshes that I like as it means flat roads, followed Euro Route 4. I’ve come to the conclusion that anything over 20 miles a day is ok. There is no point on just racking up the miles if your not seeing anything and not having a good time. What is the point of doing a Mark Beaumont and going around the world, missing half of it out and cycling from dawn till dusk. Stopped in the afternoon to buy food including dog food for Pippa, the plan was to feed her the same food that I was eating but I’ve developed a cycling tourist appetite, that means my saucepan are just about big enough for me. I tried tieing Pippa to the handle bars on the flat and she can pull me as I ride but the leash was not long enough and I had to keep hitting the brakes so as no to run her over. I camped at Fort Mahon which was an expensive campsite but I was tired 45 km today. This campsite had squat and drop toilets, I feel I am in France now.

Day 29

Rest day

Wet day, rain and wind, decided that it would not be fun cycling so stayed in. Went for a walk into town, found cash machine and market, saw a few other Bichons and I think Pippa needs a bath. In the tent I have to arrange things as Pippa has to stay in the vestibule when she is wet and she needs a place.

Day 30

Another rest day.

Very heavy rain last night and this morning, I’ve discovered the hydrostatic head of my tent is not quite good enough. It is not that I am a fare weather cyclist, it is I get no pleasure cycling in the rain and I have no time limit e.g. visa or work to get back to.

Day 31

Dry day so struck camp and left with the wind behind me, took a detour into Berck and a break on the beach then off to Le Touquet, another big detour off the direct route. North of the river estuary I found a campsite and as weather was good for the next few days I booked in for 2 nights as I need a good clean, my clothes need washing and Pippa needs a bath. In the toilet block I tried to spend as long shaving as I could to charge my tablet, then showered. I feel comfortable standing up wind of people now. I then washed my clothes and I think I need to buy some cleaning products as the best thing I had to wash them in was Pippas shampoo, I will smell of dog now, but a clean dog. While cycling I saw my first snake on this trip. My total distance today was 50 km cycled.

Pippa dirty

Day 32 – Friday 5/8/2016

Went for a walk to the local supermarket then gave Pippa a bath. Went to the bar for a beer and try and use the inter-web but very slow, as I was returning my glass I heard dog screaming from outside, Pippa was tied to my chair and decided to follow me, only the chair was chassing her.

Pippa drowned rat look

Day 33

Left the site at Ettables about 1030 and followed the D940 into Bolounge. Camped just before Wimereux. Today I realised that my bum had broken in my heavy Brookes saddle, from now on it will only get better. Cycled 33 km today.

Day 34

Stopped in Wimereux to use the cash machine again then pushed the bike up the hill out of town. Stopped at Cap Griz Nez beach to have lunch. About 1 km south of Wissant I stopped to wild camp down the side of a corn field as I still had just over 2 litres of water left. 28 km cycled today.

Wild camping

Day 35

Struck camp and cycled to Wissant then a 1 km push up hill, nice down hill to Escalles then another very steep hill with hairpin bends with lots of pushing breaks, even Lance Armstrong on a heavy drugs day would not have been able to cycle my set up, up that hill. Then downhill to Sangatte, I looked for the jungle but it must have been further back from the coast road I was on. In Calais I looked for a book/map shop but the French do not open shops on Mondays if they are open on Saturdays, except bread shops and tobbaco shops. Stayed at campsite in Les Hemmes and had a drink in the bar and a smoke as well. 42 km cycled today.

35 days, 748km and a ferry and I’m only 50 miles and an hour ferry ride from where I started.

Day 36 – Tuesday 9/8/2016

I had a late start and planned on reaching Dunkirk but had some rests during the day so decided to wild camp so I could get an early start in Dunkirk. Set up the hammock for the first time, had it low so I could use it as a chair as well. Very comfortable but at about midnight I had to get my sleeping mat out as my back was cold. Today only 27 km.

Hammock

hammock and tarp

Day 37

Rained slightly at night but lucky I had my tarp set up. Half way to Dunkirk it started to rain so I took shelter for an hour then doned my waterproofs, Sun came out as I arrived in Dunkirk so removed them, then it started raining again so put them on again. I think the last member of my family to go to Dunkirk was great uncle Mick, but he made a quick exit in June 1940, and I family tradition I made a quick exit as well but my reason was the rain. At the campsite I pitched camp in the rain and fell asleep at about noon, only to wake boiling hot as the Sun was out at 3pm. Sowed Pippas pillow again as well as my saddle cover. Today only 20 km cycled.

Pippas wet weather gear

Day 38

Rest day

It was raining in the morning, went shopping in town and slept from 1pm to 6 pm.

Day 25 – 29/7/16

Another rest day. Last night Pippa discovered she could seek into my sleeping bag, she snuffled in turned around and stuck her head out the top, been feeling a bit run down, I’ve been getting enough protein and carbs but not enough fruit and veg, so I took a half hour walk to the local shops to go shopping. I even remembered my French lessons from Mr Powel about 35 years ago, although he never taught us what methylated spirts was. Alcool a bruler according to Google translate. And they sell it in practically all mini super markets. Still very tired I slept the afternoon listening to radio 4 on long wave.

Day 26 – 30/7/16

Left the campsite at st Martin en champane and found the D313, nice easy road alongside the big D925 trunk road. I saw some french cyclist signs.

motorists  moderate your speed

share the road

I made it to the campsite at le Treport, and had a walk into town, lots of people with dogs but they did not want them to socialize with Pippa or any other dogs so no sniffs for Pippa. Today’s cycling was 25 km.

Day 27 – 31/7/16

After taking the wrong road, but very scenic route I found some nice back roads and after pushing my bike up a steep 1 1/2 km hill out of a valley I stopped to make a cup of tea and early lunch. I arrived at a campsite having cycled 38 km today, but the office was closed so I wheeled the bike in and found somewhere to put up my tent. I then walked around the site trying to look like a Frenchman who was supposed to be there, quite easy if you have a fag hanging out of your mouth and just say bonjour to anyone who looks at you.

Total for July

550 km or 341 miles

17 days cycling and 10 Rest days